If at first you don't succeed, dye, dye again

Annnnnd we're back. When we last left our heroine, she was building muscle tone by stirring a ridiculously heavy when wet Alice in Wonderland costume in a vat of dye. Or rather, I was, as my arms reminded me for almost two weeks afterward. (Note to self: Hit the gym before dyeing anything else.) As I mentioned in the first article, the dress I'm using as a base is polyester, which doesn't take dye very well. This was no exception. I did succeed in changing the color slightly, but it came out a little odd. So I decided to dunk it again, briefly, in navy blue dye. (Yeah, in retrospect, I don't get it, either. I'm sure it made sense at the time.)

We have exposed pipes in our unfinished basement that occasionally double as a clothes racks. I hung the once-again drippy dress up over the dye bucket and assessed the final color: light grey. Is it my dream color? No, not even close. But my sore arms are telling me to live with it. Besides, I'm about one round of dyeing away from becoming addicted to Advil.

With the dress quietly dripping in the basement, it's time to turn my attention to the pinafore. In true Alice fashion, the pinafore is quite elaborate (and, thankfully, cotton), with a huge frilly trim up the sides and a long wrap-around sash that could be used for tug-of-war. My first goal is to de-frill it. You will need:

• Seam ripper
• Patience

To remove the frill:

1. Using a seam ripper (NOT scissors), gently break a few stitches in the middle of the garment.
2. Use your thumb to separate the trim from the pinafore. There may be a second layer of stitches if it's a particularly nice garment.
3. Choose a direction and begin breaking the stitches, one-by-one, with your seam ripper.
4. Every few stitches insert your thumb and gently – very gently – tug the material apart. The next stitches should begin to loosen, or may come undone completely as you pull. Resist the temptation to rip it– you'll end up destroying the garment.
5. When you reach the end, there is likely to be a row (or two) or horizontal stitches. Use the same rip/tug approach at the top to loosen and remove the stitches.
6. Once the frill is completely separated, review the garment for loose threads (these are your broken stitches). They should come out with a gentle tug. If they don't, flip the garment over. You may have to break the stitch.

Next, it's time to remove the shoulder straps from the pinafore. Be extremely careful – with my garment, the shoulder straps were attached to the wrap-around sash at one place. Do not cut the sash. You will need:

• Seam ripper
• Scissors
• Measuring tape or stick
• Washable blue pen or pencil

Here's how to do it:

1. If your shoulder straps are attached to the sash, remove it with your seam ripper. (Odds are it will be sewn on.) NOTE: If it is not sewn on, use a measuring stick and washable ink pencil/pen to create a cut line running along the edge of the sash. You will have to sew this section back up after you cut.
2. Clean off extraneous threads.
3. You will have to cut the top sash off. Measure to ensure you have an even cut. After you cut, stitch the opening closed. (I hand stitched this part, but you could use a sewing machine.)
4. Review your sash for any extra material (mine had a small square attached). It is up to you whether or not you wish to remove these.

How much you cut off the bottom depends on you and your height. You want the pinafore to be fairly close to the waist – it should not look like an apron. But first, you will need to create a cut line.

1. Using a measuring stick or tape, measure up from the bottom and mark your cut point with a washable blue pen or pencil. Always measure from the bottom of the garment – this will ensure an even line.
2. Repeat the measurement – starting from the bottom – approximately every inch. (1/2 inch if you are new to this). Again, mark the point. Note that the horizontal line you are creating will not appear perfectly straight – your pinafore has a subtle curve built into it.
3. Continue until you have marked the entire garment.
4. Beginning from your dots, measure ½ inch down (toward the end of the pinafore) and make a new mark. Repeat for all dots.
5. Cut along the second (closest to the bottom) line you created.
6. Fold the bottom edge of your pinafore up so the blue lines meet. You are creating a ¼ inch seam. (Be sure you fold it inside, so it doesn't show outside.)
7. Iron your fold. You may have to refold as you go.
8. Pin it.
9. Sew the seam using a sewing machine, or hand stitch if you don't have one.

Set your pinafore aside – we'll come back to it later. Now, it's time to make a collar.

I'm detecting a pattern

You don't have to be a professional to make a pattern – you just have to have patience and a steady hand. For this pattern, you will need:

• The collar pieces you removed from the dress early on (at least one, preferably both)
• Paper, preferably white or butcher paper (I used a Sunday color newspaper ad - never use newsprint, it will rub off on your garment!)
• Pencil and eraser
• Pins
• Surface you can pin into – I picked up a portable cardboard pattern cutting board

To create your pattern:

1. Lay out your board on a completely flat surface.
2. Place the paper on top of the board.
3. Flatten the collar pieces on top of the paper.
4. Pin the collar down – use as many pins as it takes, your collar should not move.
5. Using your pencil, trace the border of your collar.
6. Measure 1/4-inch out from the inside curve of the collar and mark it. You will need to measure multiple places to get this correct.  Do not add the measurement anywhere else – just the part that will touch the dress.
7. Remove the pins and collar.
8. Cut out the pattern.
9. Place the pattern on top of the corresponding collar piece; it should match.
10. Make a small cut in three places equidistant from each other in your extra pattern area.
11. Fit the collar pattern onto the dress and fold the additional pattern section down; this will show whether it will fit in the dress.

Once you have a pattern that works, it's time to cut the collar pieces out:

• Place your material flat on the pattern board, bottom side facing up (e.g., the side that won't be showing when you wear it).
• Smooth it out but don't stretch it. If there are significant lumps, consider ironing it.
• Place your collar patterns on the material. Try to position your patterns for the best coverage, with the least wasted material.
• Pin the pattern to the material.
• Using a washable blue pen or pencil, trace the pattern onto your material.
• Carefully cut out your collar pieces.

Set these aside for now, but not too far – it's time to put everything together.

All together now!

You can sew items onto your costume in whatever order you see fit. I opted to start with the pinafore, as it would be the most time consuming. So we will start there. You will need the now-dry dress and finished pinafore plus:

• Pins
• Sewing machine or hand-stitch materials
• Measurement tape
• Someone to help

Grab your friend, it's time to play BioShock Barbie:

1. I put on my dress and hold the pinafore up to get a rough idea of where I want it to be. I asked Gamewatcher to help measure the distance from the top of the dress (where the collar ends) as a guide.
2. To determine where it should land horizontally, lay the dress out flat and measure seam-to-seam (left to right). The pinafore should be dead center.
3. I placed the pinafore on top of the dress ("eyeballing it") to see roughly how much distance I needed on each side. I then measured the distance on each side, came up with an even number (the pinafore was slightly off, it turned out) and divided in half. Note that you need to do this twice – at the very top and at the waist, just above the sash line. For example: Say I place the pinafore down on the dress, and measure 3 inches between the pinafore and the seam on the left, and 5 inches on the right. I now know I need a total of 8 inches of dress showing. That means I should measure 4 inches from the left seam and 4 inches from the right seam, and position the pinafore where those two meet. (You may have to scoot it up and down a bit to get it right.) Repeat at the bottom until it's centered.
4. After it's centered (make sure your dress is still smooth!), pin the pinafore down. Be generous with the pins. They should run vertically (pointing from collar to hem) along a line – you will be sewing along this line soon.
5. Once it's completely pinned, try the dress on again. Be sure you pull it shut in the back to get the full effect. Take a look in the mirror or ask a friend if it looks correct.
6. Happy with the pinning? Time to sew! I recommend a sewing machine for this part, but again, you can hand stitch if necessary. I opted for a darker thread and a fancy stitch to give my dress a slight design. This is not part of the official canonical Little Sister look, it was just my creative interpretation.
7. Sew along the right and left vertical (collar to hem) seams of your pinafore, and along the top horizontal (sleeve to sleeve) opening. You don't have to sew along the sash line – in fact, I recommend NOT doing it.
8. When you are done sewing, remove your pins and don the garment on again, pull the back closed and check yourself in the mirror. Personally, I rushed a bit in the sewing and ended up slightly askew. While Gamewatcher thought it wasn't too noticeable, it was uncomfortable and not quite right – so I ended up ripping out all of the stitches and trying again.

Next, the collar, also known in this household as nem-ee-sees.

Lace... why did it have to be lace

Let me say up front, I hate, hate, hate sewing collars. When I was building costumes, I would volunteer to do the pants (which most tailors despise) if it meant I didn't have to do a collar. And the only thing I hate more than collars... is lace. I went back and forth between the lace department and the cotton remainders bin for 20 minutes when choosing a collar material. Deep down inside, I knew it was going to be lace. But dammit, I put up a good fight with my subconscious. But here I am, with two lace collar pieces and a dress missing a collar. It's time to egg up or shut up.

Full disclosure: I did originally cut the collar the correct way, with the extra material to attach it to the dress. When I went to sew in the collar, I realized what a nightmare it was going to be using the lace. I briefly considered attaching the lace to something solid (e.g., a strip of material) and then sewing that to the dress, but in the end, I went rogue and just cut the extra off. I do not recommend doing this unless you really know what you're doing.

I'm not saying I know what I'm doing, but I did all right. Long story short, here's how I did it. Again, I don't recommend removing that extra material unless you are confident in sewing. Your mileage may vary, may the force be with you, always. Oh, and you will need your dress, collar pieces plus:

• Needle and thread (opt for something close to your collar color)
• Pins
• Safety pin

To attach your collar:

1. Use a safety pin to close the back of your garment.
2. Arrange the dress so your collar arcs the way it will when worn.
3. Position your collar against the dress. If you are using the extra material, it goes on the inside of the dress; the collar should fold down outside the dress. If you have removed the extra material, your collar should lay directly on the outside of the dress.
4. Pin the collar to the dress.
5. Hand stitch the collar (never use a sewing machine on lace!).
6. Periodically stop to check that the collar is still falling correctly against the dress. To do this, use your hand to simulate a shoulder. The collar should neatly fall on either side.
7. Remove the pins and try on your dress.

Last but not least, buttons!

Getting buttoned up

I had previously bought a set of buttons that looked sufficiently steampunk and creepy for the dress. The thing was, they didn't work for me anymore. While I used BioShock artwork as my original inspiration, my point of view changed over time. I found myself thinking about how I thought the Little Sisters saw the world in their version of "reality." I decided a Little Sister would want to be more frou-frou, and the buttons I originally purchased were anything but. So it was back to the button store. Fortunately, they were having a sale!

After a rather long and slightly tedious search (I found what I thought would be "my buttons" several times, only to discover there weren't enough), I landed on THE STYLE. A gorgeous button made in Spain (who knew?) with a marcasite-like finish and an elaborate labyrinth style. I fell in love. I held up one of the original Alice buttons I had brought along for sizing and discovered they were perfect: almost exactly the same width, height and depth. And they had the 12 buttons in both sizes I required – exactly what I needed.

My design called for buttons down the front (even though the pinafore is sewn on, it's meant to appear to be buttoned on). This required a bit of measuring to ensure they were in a straight line up and down, three on either side. I started at the bottom (above the sash) and used that as a measurement reference horizontally (sleeve to sleeve). Vertically, I simply broke the remaining distance up into roughly thirds, and attached the buttons.

On the back, I used the existing threads from the original buttons as a guide to sew on the new buttons. I have to admit, the buttons were the turning point for me – it finally says BioShock!

Finishing touches

The edge of my hem is extremely rough from the cutting and ripping (yes, I broke my own rule), not to mention wear and tear on the dress. So I'm hand-stitching a hem using a "whip" stitch. This entails pushing the needle halfway through the fabric and then wrapping the thread once around before completing the pull. It takes time and patience, but done right, it will prevent fraying. It took me several evenings to complete this but should prevent improve the durability of the dress.

Makeup has always been a nice-to-have for this project, and this is already long – so I'll keep it short for the three of you still reading. I went to Display & Costume in Seattle, which has a huge selection of makeup, costumes, materials and almost everything else a cosplayer could possibly need year-round. We flagged down a very helpful gentleman who walked me through various makeup tests and helped me find some options that didn't make me instantly break out. (Sensitive skin!) You can hear some of our travails and get some great tips on the podcast version of this story in Busy Gamer Podcast 45 and an extended version we'll post this weekend.

In the end, I went with water-activated powder (blue and white) that can be mixed into a slightly paler version of my skin. I also picked up a wine-colored pencil for detail work.

Designers, use the Entertainment Earth accessories wall!

And finally, it's time for the props and accessories. I picked up a nifty Big Daddy plush doll (like the Little Sisters carry) from Entertainment Earth earlier this summer. It's still available, and it's only $20. Getcha one! As for the hair... well, I think I'll probably go the easy route and try to find a bow I can just pin in my hair. The makeup dude actually asked me if what I planned to do about a syringe. I bought a gerbil feeder at a garage sale earlier this year with the intention of turning it into a syringe, but I think I may just call it a day. We'll see.

Anyway, it's basically done - and now you know how to make your own, if you're so inclined! Hope to see you at PAX!

GrrlGotGame lost her mind this year and decided to build a Little Sister costume in a three-week period. This week, we look at the overall project, sketching, purchasing supplies, seam ripping, dye testing and the final dyeing of the dress.

Conventions and cosplay have a rich tradition. Namely, girls put on highly suggestive outfits and walk around while geek guys tell themselves they could totally tap that... if I didn't have a D&D game in five minutes.

To date, the only costume I've worn to PAX has been the official geek grrl uniform: jeans, babydoll and my limited edition original Xbox launch backpack (thank you, Scott Pickle, wherever you are!). After seeing the volume of cosplay go up over the years, I've decide it's time to step up my game... and get out of bed a little earlier than I normally would on PAX days. Originally, my plan was to go low-bandwidth with a Vault 106 jumpsuit. But after spending some quality time in Rapture, I've decided there's only one way to go...

I'm going to be a Little Sister.

For the uninitiated, the Little Sisters are a group of tykes from the BioShock series who run around in dresses and  pinafores, bows in their hair and long tetanus-y needles in their hands to suck Adam out of anyone they get their grubby little hands on. So you know, cute!

I have a costuming background, but it's been decades since I put it to regular use. While I know how to build costumes from scratch, I lack a few things I had back in the day, like time. And manual dexterity. And a sewing machine. (I'm planning to resolve that last one once I have a place to set it up!) That doesn't mean I can't get creative for conventions or Halloween. With creative purchases, some hand-sewing techniques and a lot of planning, I can still put something together that rocks... and that people recognize.

This won't be like watching Martha Stewart. If I can do it, you can, too.

Tools of the cosplay trade

The first step in creating any costume is deciding what it's going to look like. You can simply find a good image online and print it out or design your own take on the costume. My costume is a bit of a hybrid. I decided early on to use an existing costume - a Disney-fied Alice in Wonderland does the trick - but with major modifications. I found a costume online that fit my design needs, printed out a photo and attached it to my sketch book next to a Little Sister image. Using the two as reference points, I sketched out my Little Sister costume.

• Alice in Wonderland dress/apron from Buy Alice in Wonderland Costumes
• Big Daddy doll (available at Entertainment Earth)
• Shoes (comfortable but Mary Jane-ish)
• Hair piece

...and to update the dress:

• Large buttons (preferably steampunk)
• Lace or other material for a new collar
• Rit dye (always use Rit. Period.)
• Dye tub - I'm using a large storage tub (I don't like to use my washer)
• Dye stir stick (check your local crafts store, such as Michael's)
• Sturdy, long rubber gloves
• Bleach (for cleaning, possibly distressing)
• Rough brush or scrubbie for distressing
• Basic sewing materials:
  • Seam ripper
  • Dedicated sewing scissors (Fiskers are best!)
  • Pins (thin pinhead)
  • Seamstress chalk/chalk holder
  • Sewing Machine

Most materials can be purchased either at a crafts store or your local fabric store. Place your online order now and then shop around for everything else. The dye tub will make a convenient repository for everything else... until you start dyeing in it, of course.

We're gonna rip, rip, rip it apart

Today, I void the warranty on my dress, so to speak. Before I start removing pieces, I try it on. It still fits fine, although it's longer than I'd like. I'll be removing several inches from the bottom, including an eyelet trim, before I dye it. This will reduce the material I have to dye, leaving more color for the rest of the dress. As a bonus, less material means it will weigh less when I have to stir it in the hot dye water for an hour. (Hit the gym now - you're going to need that upper-body strength!)

Before I dye the dress, I need to do a test run. It has to be the exact same material as the dress. In this case, that means pulling off part of the dress itself. The collar was the perfect candidate: I'm going to replace it with a lace version, so it's coming off sooner or later anyway. Plus if I remove it intact, I can use the existing collar as a starting point for my new collar pattern - a time saver! I also want to remove the eyelet lining along the bottom of the dress.

To remove the collar:

• Use your seam ripper to gently prod apart the collar and the dress ("dig in the ditch"). Be careful not to shred the material. Start toward the middle for the least resistance.
• A stitch will start to pop up (or appear in between) as you prod the ditch.
• Break the stitch with your seam ripper.
• Continue with an adjacent stitch, prodding gently and breaking the stitch.
• After a few stitches, you should be able to insert a finger in between the collar and dress. VERY gently pull on either side - this should stretch the stitches and make it easier to break multiples.
• Continue until you reach the end. While it's tempting to rip and/or cut the fabric, continue focusing on just the stitches.

When you are done, you will have two collar pieces, intact, that can be used to create a collar pattern. They also provide instant test strips for your first dye session. And you WILL want to do a test run before you dye the dress.

As I mentioned earlier, it also helps to chop off anything you don't need before you dye. For me, that means losing some material at the bottom of the dress. Put on the dress and hand your tailor's chalk to a friend and ask them to help you make two deep, thick chalk marks at your desired length. It's important to do this while wearing the dress - you can't judge the length of the dress on a hangar.

Use measuring tape to determine the length from the edge of the dress to your desired new length. Start from the hem, where the eyelet attaches to the dress. If you want to have a flat, even hem, you will have some work ahead of you. Using a measuring stick, measure every inch (or so) from the hem point and use your chalk to create a line. Yes, you have to start from the bottom - you can't just draw a straight line around the dress.

Me? I'm taking the slightly lazy way out. I began by seam ripping a significant portion of the eyelet, then hand ripped it. I was tired and ended up ripping more than I bargained for in a vaguely triangular shape. I actually liked the results and will be cutting - yes, with scissors - additional similar shapes around the end. While the Little Sisters usually have a hem, I'm taking the approach of someone who's been around Rapture for a while and has a dress that's a bit raggedy. Call it artistic license!

To dye for

Well, there's no avoiding it anymore - it's time to dye. I need to do a test before I dye the entire thing, and I've gotten about as far as I can without dyeing the dress. As I've mentioned previously, I need to do a dye test to see what I can expect, color-wise, before moving on. The dress I chose is 100 percent polyester, which is wrong on many levels... it's isn't the best material for dye jobs, and it doesn't breathe so you will get sweaty in it. I have already come up with a secondary plan to hand "distress" the dress if I can't get a new color to take. I just don't want to have to do it.

Shortly before I start, I realize that the tub I bought for the dress-dyeing project is long and deep. Perfect for a huge bunch of material, but overkill for the 12 inches of material I need to dunk today. Fortunately, I have an empty kitty litter container available. I put the kettle on to boil, rinse out the bucket and start collecting my materials.

For the dye test, I need:

• A dye tub (bucket or plastic container)
• Rit dye (I chose Wine)
• An apron
• A sturdy stir stick (available in craft stores - get one that's at least 1/2-inch wide)
• Long, sturdy gloves
• Very hot water
• Plastic garbage bag
• A place to dump out the water
• Time

That last one is non-negotiable. You must be available to stir constantly during your dye project and clean up takes time, too.

It's critical you have time to clean up immediately... unless you like a purple basin. Read through the dye directions completely before you begin.

NOTE: Rit does include directions for dyeing in a washing machine. I just prefer not to do it that way because I don't want to risk any residual dye tinting our everyday clothes.

Before you crack the dye, make sure you have a plan.

Things to consider:

1. Where you're planning to dye your dress. I prefer outside, assuming it's warm. Things to consider:
   1. You have to use hot water, so choose somewhere you can reasonably carry a LOT of hot water in a short time.
   2. Rit dye will dye EVERYTHING. So your palatial terrazzo floor? Probably not your best choice.
   3. You need a place to dump the dye water. The closer it is, the less chance you have of creating a dye trail.
2. Did I mention that Rit dye will dye EVERYTHING? Put on your heavy duty, long gloves before you dive into the dye. It works fast. An apron is a good idea, too. And don't risk any clothes or shoes you care about.
3. It takes a while. It takes about an hour to dye, plus another ½ or hour so to clean up. Plan accordingly.
4. You're going to be bored. An hour is a loooong time to stare at - and stir - material. Bring a radio, bring a friend or bring something you can watch (TV, iPad, iPod, whatever). Just don't bring a book - you're hands will be busy.
5. You need somewhere to rinse it out. Identify a sink that you can rinse your dress in when you're done. Make sure it's empty and that your path is clear. And rinse it well, or the dye will come off on YOU when you wear it!
6. You'll need somewhere to dry it... and it probably shouldn't be your dryer.
   1. I put my test strip in and within 10 minutes it had stained the inside of my dryer. I managed to remove the stain with bleach. My dryer is now propped open to air out. I'm going to have to throw a test towel in there later to make sure it doesn't dissolve the next item I put in there. Learn from my mistake.
   2. It will drip. 'Nuff said. I'm using the tub I dyed the dress in, now clean and empty, as a basin for the dress to hang dry over.

It sounds incredibly complicated, but by thinking these issues through now, you greatly reduce the things that could go wrong when you actually do the work. Rit will teach you to dye, so I'll let them take it away (read the directions). My only addenda: To do a dye test, just put about six inches of hot water and enough dye to color the water in your tub and continue as directed. This will give you an idea of what to expect from your final dye job.

CONTINUED IN PART 2: Pulling it all together